Rafting in Ubud, down the Ayung gorge

From the base a 10-minute drive takes you to the launch, and the listing then gives 2 hours of rafting on the Ayung with a professional guide in the boat. Indonesia Travel describes the scenery that follows: rainforest, rice fields, carved stone walls and waterfalls along the gorge.

After the river comes a short drive and a 30-minute Indonesian buffet lunch at Toekad Rafting. Showers, fresh towels, changing rooms and a restroom are included, as are drinking water, insurance and all the rafting gear. If you booked pickup, the trip ends at one of 13 drop-off areas, from Ubud to Seminyak and Nusa Dua Beach.

Upstream, three tributaries from Pelaga, Catur and Kintamani meet at Payangan to feed it. By the time the river reaches the rafting stretch it has cut a deep, steep-sided valley, which is why every base sits high above the water and why the walk down is part of the trip.

The gorge is the reason to raft here rather than anywhere else on the island. The water runs between walls of forest, past waterfalls that drop straight into the river and rock faces carved with figures that are best seen from a raft. Ayung River rafting is as much a way to see this valley as it is a ride through rapids.

The water itself gets a more measured verdict. One rafter called it beginner-friendly and less wild than hoped, another found it less bumpy than expected, and a third liked the mix of rapids with calm floating in between. For families and first-timers that balance is a strength; for thrill seekers it is worth knowing in advance.

The other recurring theme is the stairs. Several guests warn about the long, uneven walk down and the climb back up at the end, and one called it a proper workout. Lunch and value for money are praised, while one guest wished the paid photos and videos had been easier to collect on the day.

In the rainy season, when the water rises, the same source classes the river as IV, with medium-large waves and sharper bends that need better skills. The listing for this trip gives class 2 rapids that sometimes rise to class 4 in the rainy season.

Bali's west monsoon lasts from about October to April, with heavy rain particularly from December to March. If you want the gentler river, aim for the drier months; if you want more white water, the wet season delivers it, along with the chance of a changed plan when the river is high. Our page on timing goes through the months one by one.

Going down is easy on the lungs and hard on wet stone; coming up, after the river and in the heat, is the part your legs remember the next day. Take it slowly, use the handrails where there are any, and drink the water the base provides before you start the climb.

This is also why the not-suitable list matters. The trip is not suitable for people with a low level of fitness, people with heart problems or people over 65. If stairs are the one thing that worries you, ask before booking, or read our safety page on what the climb asks of you.

Lunch is a 30-minute Indonesian buffet at Toekad Rafting, after a 10-minute drive from the river. Drinking water is included through the day, and the only thing listed as not included is personal expenses.

Bring a plastic bag for your wet clothing, which the listing asks for, and a full change of clothes. Then sit back: after a morning on the water, a plate of rice and a view over the green valley is a fine way to end a rafting trip, before the drive back to your hotel.

The listing gives 13 drop-off areas: Tegalalang, Sanur, Ubud, Denpasar, Seminyak, Kuta, Jimbaran, Badung Regency, Canggu, Nusa Dua Beach, Gianyar, Tabanan and Legian. If you stay in Ubud itself, meeting at the Kedewatan base keeps the drive short.

Choose your start with the rest of the day in mind. A morning start gives better light in the gorge for photos, by Indonesia Travel's advice. An early-afternoon start leaves the morning free.

Shoes matter most, because of the stairs. Water shoes or sandals with a heel strap grip wet stone; loose flip-flops do not. One rafting listing on the same river calls flip-flops not ideal and recommends waterproof sandals or secure shoes.

Leave luggage and large bags at the hotel: the trip does not allow them. Sunglasses need a strap, a phone needs a sealed case if it comes at all, and sun cream goes on before you leave the base. The helmet and life jacket come from the operator with the rest of the rafting equipment.

The trip is suitable for ages 5 to 65, and not for children under 5, pregnant women, people with heart problems, people over 65 or people with a low level of fitness. Indonesia Travel adds a fair warning: each operator sets its own rules on age and safety, so read the exact listing you book.

Listen to the safety talk. An instructor writing for the International Rafting Federation lists what it should cover, including what to do if you fall out: smile, hold your paddle, swim back. Follow the guide's calls, keep your feet wedged in, and the river does most of the work.

Sobek, which runs both rivers, describes the Telaga Waja as the stronger river, with more continuous rapids and longer runs, and the Ayung as the more relaxed and scenic one. One Telaga Waja listing even includes a drop over a dam of about 5 meters.

The catch is the drive. From Seminyak, Kuta or Jimbaran, Telaga Waja listings give between 1.5 and 3 hours each way. From Ubud, the Ayung is the easy choice for a half-day; the Telaga Waja makes more sense if you are staying in Sidemen or the east. Our comparison page sets the two side by side.

It suits less well anyone hoping for serious white water in the dry months, when the Ayung runs at class II and III. It does not suit people who struggle with long staircases, and it is not open to anyone over 65 or with heart problems.

If you want more adrenaline, look at the Telaga Waja in east Bali or come in the rainy season, when the Ayung rises. If you want privacy, the listing says private or small groups are available. For everyone else, it is an easy, well-organised morning on Bali's longest river.